Lawn Maintenance

Weekly through the main growing season, then every other week as growth slows. If weather shifts the schedule, we let you know before the visit.

No. With your gate code and a note about any pets, we can complete the visit on our own. If something blocks the lawn, such as a locked gate or a car on the grass, we'll send you a message.

We let the lawn dry and return on the next workable day. Mowing wet grass tears the blades and leaves ruts, so a short delay is better for the lawn.

We usually mulch them back into the lawn, where they break down quickly and return nutrients to the soil. When growth is heavy enough to clump, or if you prefer, we bag them and haul them away.

It depends on the plant. Spring-flowering shrubs are pruned right after they bloom, so next year's buds are not lost. Most evergreens and formal hedges do best in late spring or early fall. We avoid heavy shearing during extreme summer heat.

Often, yes, though rarely in a single visit. Removing too much at once stresses the plant and can leave bare wood that may not fill back in. We reduce overgrown shrubs gradually over a season or two, and we'll tell you plainly if a plant is beyond recovery.

Yes. Cleanup and haul-away are part of every visit, and beds, walks, and drives are cleared before we leave.

Only where that look is wanted. Formal hedges receive clean faces and level tops. Most foundation shrubs look better and stay healthier when they keep their natural shape.

It depends on the product and whether it needs to be watered in. We'll give you a specific window after each visit. As a rule, that means waiting until the product has been watered in and the grass is completely dry.

Not entirely, and we won't describe it that way. It means we choose products and methods with pets in mind and tell you clearly when the lawn is ready again. Any lawn product deserves ordinary care until that window has passed.

Most lawns in the western suburbs do best with several applications spread across the growing season. Soil, shade, and foot traffic all affect the plan, so we recommend a schedule once we have seen your lawn.

The risk rises when heavy rates meet stressed grass in high heat. We avoid fertilizing during peak summer stress and keep rates measured. If a heat wave follows an application, keep the lawn watered and call us if you notice browning tips.

Two to three inches is right for most beds. Deeper layers hold too much moisture against the roots and can invite disease. If mulch has built up over the years, we thin it out rather than add another layer.

Usually not. Older mulch breaks down into organic matter that benefits the soil. We remove or thin it only when the depth has built up too high or when you are changing to a different material.

Dyed mulch generally holds its color through the season before softening in the sun. Natural hardwood weathers to gray sooner but breaks down more gracefully. Either is a matter of taste. Depth and clearance around trunks matter more to the health of the plants.

No, but it slows them considerably and makes the rest easy to pull. Seeds still blow in, and bed edges need occasional attention. Mulch combined with regular bed care keeps weeds well under control.

Most treatments work on weeds that are already growing, not on the seeds waiting in the soil, so new weeds are normal. A well-timed pre-emergent in spring prevents far more crabgrass than treating it in July.

We treat selectively and switch to hand-pulling near sensitive plantings. Let us know about vegetable gardens or new perennials, and we'll note those areas before any work begins.

No one can promise that. Wind, birds, and neighboring yards bring in new seed all the time. The realistic goal is a thick lawn and well-kept beds where weeds stay minor and easy to manage.

Yes. In mixed beds, around shallow-rooted plants, and anywhere spray could drift, hand-pulling is the better choice. Treatments are best suited to open lawn.

No. The plugs break down on their own within a couple of weeks and return soil and nutrients to the surface.

New grass usually appears within one to three weeks, depending on temperature and moisture. The lawn continues to thicken over the following months as the young grass fills in.

Only with careful timing. Some pre-emergent products stop grass seed as well as weeds, so we schedule the two to keep them from working against each other.

Warm soil and cooler air give new grass a long, gentle growing period before winter. Spring seeding can work, but weeds and early summer heat make it harder for young grass to establish.

Late winter, while trees are dormant, is ideal for most species. The branch structure is easy to see, and the tree is under less stress. Dead or hazardous wood is removed whenever we find it, and flowering trees are pruned around their bloom.

We assess the access, the lean of the tree, and what lies beneath it before taking on any large removal. If a job calls for specialized rigging or an outside arborist, we'll tell you plainly and help you with the next step.

Grinding leaves wood chips and a shallow depression, which can be filled with soil and seeded or planted. We agree on the depth beforehand, depending on whether you plan to replant, build, or simply level the area.

Sometimes. If the damage is limited and the remaining structure is sound, careful pruning may be enough. In other cases, removal is the responsible choice. We'll explain what we see before recommending either.

After most of the leaves have dropped and before lasting snow. Too early, and a second drop covers the finished beds. Too late, and wet leaves mat down on the lawn. Under large oaks and maples, we often plan a main visit followed by a lighter one.

A thick, wet layer blocks light and holds moisture against the grass, which can lead to snow mold and dead patches by spring. A light scattering of leaves in the beds is fine. A heavy layer on the lawn is not.

Not automatically. Some stems protect the plant over winter and feed birds, while others are better cut. We cut back what helps the plant and leave the rest standing.

Yes. Spring focuses on winter debris, leftover leaves, and preparing beds for new growth. Fall focuses on leaf removal, cutting back, and readying the property for winter.

Cut out a small wedge of lawn and look at the brown, spongy layer between the grass and the soil. Under half an inch is usually fine. If the lawn feels springy underfoot, sheds water, or seed never seems to take, it is worth having us measure it.

No. Aeration relieves compacted soil by removing small cores. Dethatching removes buildup on the surface. Some lawns benefit from both, but they address different problems.

Yes, for a short time. The lawn can look thin for a couple of weeks before it greens up again. If you have an event coming up, we'll schedule the work well ahead of it.

A light, well-timed feeding can help recovery, but a heavy application on a stressed lawn can do harm. We'll coordinate dethatching with your fertilization schedule.

Spring and early fall give roots the best start before summer heat or winter cold. Summer planting is possible with careful watering, but it is less forgiving, and we may suggest waiting for cooler weather.

Any warranty depends on the plant, the season, and the aftercare. Whatever applies will be written into your estimate.

Because they will grow. Close spacing looks full at first but quickly becomes crowded. Proper spacing may look open for a season, then looks right for years. We'll walk you through the layout before planting.

Usually, if it suits the spot. If a plant is wrong for deep shade, heavy clay, or a wet corner, we'll let you know before it goes in the ground.

Most households benefit from regular cleaning from late spring through early fall, when heat makes odors stronger. Visits can be spaced further apart in winter, and we'll suggest a schedule that suits your household.

Yes. We schedule visits just after your collection day, so the carts are empty and easy to reach.

On site, near where the carts are usually kept, in a spot that drains well. We make sure no soapy water is left pooled against the house or in planting beds.

The cleaning resets the carts, but the next week's trash starts the process again. Regular visits are what keep odors to a minimum.